Life at 9,300 feet

Have you ever climbed to the highest point of the British isles? It's Ben Nevis at 4,400 feet. If you can imagine doubling that altitude you are still not at the height at which Ecuadorians carry out their day to day business in their capital city.

A newcomer to Quito notices the difference straight away, and some people can become very ill from the altitude. The moment I stepped off the plane the light, crisp air was very apparent and climbing a simple flight of stairs or walking at a brisk pace proved challenging. During my first week I had to remind myself not to laugh too hard and sometimes while sitting still reading I had to remind myself to take deeper breaths - otherwise I would suddenly need to gasp for air. On my second day I went against all advice and joined in a game of football, but after a minute or two of breathless dizziness accepted that even being goalkeeper could be challenging.

Quito is in fact in a valley, and the surrounding mountains and volcanoes rise a few thousand feet higher. The highest point in Ecuador soars to an astounding 20,600 feet and can be considered the highest point on planet Earth, since its position near the Equator means it is further away from the centre of the Earth than the peak of Mount Everest.

Living in a country of such natural extremes is breathtaking in more ways than one, and I haven't even gone near the Amazonian Rainforest or the world-famous Galapagos Islands yet. Nature is not the only source of surprises round here, however. Going about my daily life is proving very interesting...

Going by car to the school where I work everyday has turned out to be a rich source of intrigue. Road signs barely seem to exist in this country, and the same is true for road markings painted on the street. Drivers often have to rely on divine inspiration in order to find their way while at the same time making rough estimates as to which lane they are in and battling with the hooting and aggressive barging of other drivers. Many cars have no registration plate and Ecuadorians are puzzled as to why I find this strange. Exhaust fumes are black and much more copious than in Europe: I really don't know what they do to their engines to create such a polluting haze but I'm sure Greenpeace wouldn't be happy about it.

It is apparently normal to see adults and children clinging onto the back of vehicles hitching a ride or sitting on the back edge of a pick-up truck with barely anything to hold on to. I have even seen this at high speed on the highways and dread the day in which I witness a child lose their grip.

Poverty is very visible and at every set of traffic lights men, women and children take the opportunity to approach cars offering everything from newspapers to coconuts or a quick juggling show. The young children of these vendors are sometimes left to play on the ridge that separates six lanes of traffic inhaling black fumes day in, day out.

The streets are not safe and most shops and public buildings have an armed guard waiting for trouble. Most of the students in the residence I am living in have some story of when they were mugged or attacked. One of my fellow English teachers even told me about when he was kidnapped by the legendary FARC guerillas, who normally operate in Colombia but sometimes cross the border into Ecuador.

It is only my ninth day in Latin America. I have seen a lot but there is plenty more to see. This afternoon I am going to visit leprosy sufferers in a local hospital. Stay tuned.